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BG725382321 25/01/2021
Just arrived Jan 26th 2021. The receiver (Dumborc, a good one) was sitting on top of the car, so the body is broken beyond repair. Car looks good, but if you want it to last it is not ready to run, this will be true of all ZD V3 1/8 line. The differentials are shimmed but the output shafts have too much play in them. If the output (driveshaft) coupling is pushed in (drive shafts are almost press fit, so they will push at least in the beginning) this motion moves the bevel gear inside the differential. This "closes" the tolerances with the spider gears and "locks up" the internal gear set, that can not be good. My solution is to shim the drive coupling on the outer side of the differential support bearing. The coupling is 6 mm so I am using 6x8 mm shims. The plastic diff cup has zero clearance with the differential housing (which is bowed in a bit, manufacturing defect or thing with plastic part), opposite the ring gear. You need to file down the cup a little (there is a lip of sorts). I also shimmed that side with 13x16 mm shim to move the cup away from the housing. Diffs had 40% fluid in them. The dog bones pins are not symmetrical, they need to be pressed a bit. Universal joints up front are very stiff, I used some polish paste and worked them loose. Motor was not parallel with the spur gear, it is only supported with two screws up front....All screws going into metal have some very strong thread lock, you need to use heat on them or you will be stripping the heads. I also filled in the hub to spokes area of the wheels (people brake them on Youtube) with baking soda and super glue. In a way you get a lot for the money ($350 delivered, no batt). There is lots of thick aluminium, big bore shocks, electronics look good (Dumborc is great for the radio). Living in Indonesia I am kind of forced into these brands as the name brands are X2 or more USA prices. If not because of that it would have been Arrma something. Hope this helps.
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BG725382321 Notso much a comment as help for someone looking at this car. I just got it, Jan 21. All drive shafts are super tight (almost pressed in) at the dog bones. I had to file off the bronze plating in order for the pins to slide in the cups. Both front/rear diffs are not shimmed properly, the front was super tight, click, click.....The other issue is that the diff housing is bowed in (at the output bearings, this causes interference between the housing and the diff cup. You need to shim the diff cup away from the housing, this also will fix the pinion/ring gear lash. The drive cups/shafts are loose at the diff support bearings, They can move inwards forcing the bevel drive gears into the spider gears, this locks up the internal diff motion. More shimming. The ESC does not have a programming function, you need a programming card. There is no amp rating stated anywhere on the ESC. The centre diff support is separate from motor mount, it is hard to set mash and keep the gears parallel. Thread lock is super strong, need to use heat to remove the screws. Also some was put on my C hub ball joint, it ate away the plastic and now I have lots of play on one side. It took me all day, $30 of shims, diff oil (the diffs were filled at 40%), I reinforced the back of the wheels with baking soda and super glue. Body was busted from shipping, the transmitter (Dumbors, this is a very good, simple radio)was just loosely bouncing around the box.Check out MrGridstrom vids before you purchase this rc. Keep in mind all these problem parts are used in the entire ZD line. I hope I helped someone, I found this info 1 hr too late. My review is also below, but I can't edit it.Now this becomes 3 star car, and I am being nice.

BG153245421 13/08/2020
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BG725382321 Thebevel gears are removable, just get a pair of pliers and they will slide right off the drive cup/shaft. there is a pin that you need to remove and the cup slides out. The set screw in the diff cup is for the pin to slide out, not to fill the diff with oil. Check out MrGridstom for what to look at and correct. I posted a review with some of this info, the 4 star which now is more like 3 but I can't edit it.

BoetieJan 10/01/2020
Awesome car for the price- drives a lot like thunder tiger eb4 s3. Shock is awesome and has little hole in top-cap like Traxxas for excess oil to push out when Changing shock oil. Also has n crub screw in the differential to refil diff oil. Bad side is that diff cupps and gears attached to the cups can not be removed (it is pressed not held with C-clip or grub)- and the main gear of the diff can not be removed from cup and smaller gear holding it in place- so bad side is of any gear (except the 4 tinny gears) would strip or if a cup would wear out, you would have to order a whole new differential.. Rims is real bad quality- it is hollow at the back so fill it up with an epoxy to make stronger or with like Q-bond. The pinion is 13t but not same metal as spur so won't last- I changed mine with M1 13t pinion. My body got "melted" on the way to me- got into extreme heat along the way and it warped the whole body. Other downside is that is doens not come with 120a as shown- comes with weaker 80a and the car does feel slow for it's size- I would suggest ordering a 120a racerstsr ESC extra and you can even replace stock motor with 2600kv 4068size racerstar motor as well for nice speed. I changed out my servo strait away so can't comment on that? And there was 4 screws that was glued with lock tight that was not meant to be glued that really caused a lot of trouble for me- so make sure you have a 100% solid "Ellen key" set. There also few places In had to add watchers to remove play on parts that seemed to loose but don't know how to explain all of it. Rest of the RC is really nice, and it seems really strong.
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